Audemars Pigeut Royal Oak Series Calendar Watch Equipped with The Ultrathin Automatic Cochain Homemade Movement Calibre 5134

As the most representative complex function interpreting the mystery of time, the calendar is always one of the Audemars Pigeut’s specialties in the area of complex function. The new Audemars Pigeut Royal Oak watch is driven by the Ultrathin Automatic cochain Homemade Movement Calibre 5134, precisely presenting the display of the calendar function: date, week, month, leap year, accurate astronomical moon phase, and calendar display of 52 weeks.

Audemars Pigeut Royal Oak

 

The silver or blue “Grande Tapisserie” large Gewen dial shows the calendar which has complex function of a long history, but also carries the eternal and changing time. Moon phase display disc is made of las er technology in the sand stone carved material deposition, which reminds people of the bright moon in the sky in winter of Vallee de Joux, bright and clean.

You Can Swim and Shower with Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400ST

Countless times we have seen watch collectors post questions across the different watch forums regarding the water resistance of their watches and whether they can shower or swim with them. Some of the most common posts relate to questions like: Can I shower or swim with my Royal Oak?

‘Water Resistance’ and ‘Waterproof’ are two terms that are commonly interchangeably used by the different watch manufactures depending on the type of testing that the watch has undergone or even at their discretion. In the context of the textile industry, these two terms mean two completely different things, where ‘water resistant’ refers to ‘water repellant’ more so than waterproofing.

When it comes to watches, it is really a matter of semantics and the type of testing that the watches have gone through. Per the ISO standards, watches that have been tested under the ISO 2281 Horology, need to be labeled as ‘Water Resistant’, while those that have been tested under the ISO 6425 Divers’ Watches International Standard can be labeled ‘Waterproof’ and be referred to as Diving or Diver’s Watch.

While the ISO doesn’t allow the use of the word ‘Waterproof’ unless the watch has undergone the ISO 6425 Divers’ testing, at the end of the day the manufactures end up using the words interchangeably. For instance, Audemars Piguet uses the word ‘Water Resistance’ even though the Royal Oak Offshore Diver has undergone the ISO 6425 Divers’ Watches International Standard. Another perfect example of this is Rolex who uses ‘Water Resistance’ and underneath ‘Waterproof’ when stating the 3,900 meters depth rating for the Sea-Dweller Deepsea, clearly one of the most robust diving watches. In reality, both watches mentioned before, should have had ‘Waterproof’ instead of ‘Water Resistance’ as they have achieved the higher level of testing. Please click on the images below to see for yourself.

‘Water Resistance’ refers to making objects relatively unaffected by water or resisting the ingress of water under specified conditions – depth, time of immersion, length of exposure, etc.. ‘Waterproof’ means making an object virtually impervious to water.

To make matters even worse, the words ‘Depth Rating’ are commonly used and are directly correlated to ‘water resistance’ and ‘waterproofing’ sometimes creating more confusion amongst inexperienced watch owners. Usually specified in atmospheres – on my door, BAR, meters or feet – and very common across different watch brands, ‘Depth Rating’ refers to the maximum depth guaranteed by the manufacture, before water will ingress the timepiece. If the watch says ‘Water Resistant’ and is accompanied by a ‘Depth Rating’ —let’s say 5 ATM—, this means that you can rest assured that no water will ingress the timepiece until the watch goes past a depth of 5 ATM, 5 BAR, 50 meters, 164 feet or its equivalent atmospheric pressure even if the watch is submersed at a depth of a few centimeters while getting pressure tested.

Often, people will think that a water resistant watch is only safe while in the rain, while washing your hands or showering regardless of its depth rating. However, that is completely incorrect and very misleading. If your watch indicates that is water resistant to a depth of 50 meters —such as it is the case of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400ST – and you follow the manufacture’s instructions regarding regular pressure testing and maintaining the crown properly secured or screwed in if the watch is fitted with a screw-down crown, rest assured that showering or taking a swim with it will do no harm.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon Titanium

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept was first launched in 2002 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the launch of the iconic Royal Oak in a limited edition of 150 pieces. That first Royal Oak Concept, was fitted with an ultra rare sculpted-shaped case made of Alacrite 602 with a hardness of 430 vickers and a titanium bezel. The Alacrite 602 is a super-alloy composed of 57% cobalt, 31% chrome, 5% tungsten and the remaining 6% of carbon, silicon and iron.

While the first Royal Oak Concept did feature a tourbillon, it didn’t come with a GMT function. Alternatively, it was equipped with a dynamograph, a power reserve indicator showing the number of turns of the barrel and a Kevlar aramid fiber strap. In 2008, Audemars Piguet presented the Royal Oak Carbon Concept Tourbillon Chrono and in 2011 they launched this Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon reviewed here and that belongs to a close friend and watchlifestyler that we like to call ‘The King of the Midwest’. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon is fitted with a titanium case with black ceramic bezel, with a tourbillon and a GMT dual time function.

This watch just like the first Royal Oak Concept, features a sculpted-shaped case measuring 44 mm in diameter and a thickness of 16.05 mm but this time, made of lightweight and ultra hard titanium. To enhance its ultra sporty and avant-garde look, the watch is fitted with an integrated black rubber strap —instead of the Kevlar aramid fiber strap on the first Royal Oak Concept— with deployant buckle that matches its black ceramic bezel and crown just perfectly.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon features an openworked dial with a second time-zone indicator at 3, a crown position indicator at 6, a tourbillon at 9 o’clock, a black anodized aluminum bridge shaped like an hourglass in the center of the dial, white gold skeletonized hands and a black anodized aluminum flange. To round out the amazing design of this watch, Audemars Piguet fitted this timepiece with a convenient pusher at 4 o’clock to that advances the dual time zone disc as necessary. The GMT display provides an instant reading of the time in a second time-zone with two superimposed discs, making it easy to tell the time. The first, on which the figures are inscribed, completes one turn in 12 hours. The second, just below, completes a turn in 24 hours and has 2 colored areas: a white half for daytime and a black half for night-time. While some of the H-serial Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon watches feature a dial that only says AP and the word ‘Swiss’ below, this I-serial example features the newer dial with AP and the Audemars Piguet wording above it.

An impressive feat in its own right, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s manual wound movement – calibre 2913, is fully visible via the display case back. To guarantee the best visibility and to fully appreciate this work of art without any unwanted reflections or glare, Audemars Piguet treated both the front and back sapphire crystals with a superb anti-reflective coating. The Audemars Piguet calibre 2913 features a twin barrel mechanism that ensures a 10-day power reserve —when fully wound— while beating at a frequency of 21,600 vph and a tourbillon cage that rotates every 60 seconds. The tourbillon cage is comprised of 85 components and merely weighs only 0.45 grams. An experienced watchmaker spends almost three days assembling its 85 components —two full days just to install the cage— and two full weeks to assemble the movement that is composed of 291 parts and fitted with 29 jewels.